You might think you need a heavy-duty conventional setup for a day on the water, but trolling with a spinning reel is actually a lot more versatile and effective than most people realize. While the old-school crowd might swear by their massive baitcasters and gold-anodized reels, plenty of us have found that the gear we already use for casting can do double duty behind the boat. Whether you're hitting a local lake for some walleye or dragging lures along a coastal drop-off, your favorite spinning setup can definitely get the job done if you know how to set it up right.
The truth is, spinning reels have come a long way. The drags are smoother, the frames are stiffer, and they can handle a lot more abuse than they used to. You don't always need a specialized trolling rig to put fish in the cooler. In fact, for a lot of light to medium applications, a spinning reel is actually easier to manage, especially if you're fishing with beginners or kids who aren't used to the "bird's nest" potential of a conventional reel.
Why Use a Spinning Reel for Trolling?
One of the biggest reasons to stick with a spinning reel is simply familiarity. If you spend 90% of your time casting and retrieving, you already know exactly how that drag feels and how much pressure you can put on a fish. There's no learning curve with a different type of gear. Plus, if the trolling bite dies down and you see fish breaking the surface nearby, you can just reel in, stand up, and start casting immediately. You aren't "locked in" to one style of fishing.
Another thing I love about it is the ease of use. If you're trolling with friends who don't fish often, handing them a spinning rod is much safer. They won't accidentally hit the free-spool button and end up with a tangled mess that takes an hour to pick out. It makes the whole day a lot more relaxed.
Choosing the Right Reel Size
When you're trolling with a spinning reel, you can't just grab an ultralight trout setup and expect it to survive. Trolling puts a constant, steady strain on the gears and the drag system. You want something with a bit of "heft" to it. Generally, a 3000 to 5000 size reel is the sweet spot for most freshwater and light saltwater trolling.
If you're going after bigger fish—think striped bass, king mackerel, or large lake trout—you'll probably want to step up to a 6000 or 8000 size. These larger reels have more line capacity and, more importantly, larger drag washers that can dissipate heat better. When a fish hits a moving lure, the initial strike is violent. If your reel is too small, that drag is going to scream, and you might find yourself running out of line faster than you can turn the boat around.
The Importance of a Smooth Drag
This is arguably the most critical part of the whole setup. When you're trolling, the boat's speed is already pulling the lure, and when a fish hits it, it's adding its own weight and speed to that equation. If your drag is "sticky" or jerky, the line will snap or the hook will pull out of the fish's mouth almost instantly.
Before you drop your lures back, make sure your drag is set properly. It should be loose enough that a solid strike won't break the line, but tight enough to set the hook. A lot of guys like to use spinning reels with a "live liner" or "baitrunner" feature. This is a secondary drag system that lets the fish take line with almost no resistance until you turn the handle. It's a game-changer for trolling because it prevents the rod from getting ripped out of the holder if a big one hits.
Managing Line Twist
If there's one "enemy" of trolling with a spinning reel, it's line twist. Because of the way line comes off the spool on a spinning reel, it's naturally prone to twisting. If you're pulling a lure that spins (like a spoon or a spinner) for hours on end, your line can end up looking like a telephone cord.
To fight this, you absolutely must use high-quality swivels. I usually run a ball-bearing swivel about 18 to 24 inches in front of my lure. Don't cheap out here; a standard brass swivel won't spin fast enough to keep up with the lure's rotation. Another trick is to use a "keel weight" or a rudder if you're using lures that have a tendency to rotate. This keeps the line from twisting upstream of the weight.
Rod Choice Matters Too
You can't talk about the reel without mentioning the rod. When you're trolling with a spinning reel, you need a rod that has some "backbone" but also a flexible tip. If the rod is too stiff, there's no "give" when the boat bounces on a wave or a fish hits, which leads to pulled hooks.
Look for a medium or medium-heavy rod with a fast or extra-fast action. You want the rod to have a nice bend in it while you're trolling—this acts as a shock absorber. If the rod is doubled over just from the weight of the lure, it's too light. You want it to sit in the rod holder with a slight, steady arc, ready to snap back when a fish takes the bait.
Setting Your Distance
One mistake I see people make when trolling with a spinning reel is keeping the lure too close to the boat. Spinning reels don't always have line counters, so you have to get good at "eyeballing" the distance. A common trick is to count the "pulls." One pull is the distance from your reel to the first guide on your rod (usually about two feet).
For most species, you want your lure anywhere from 50 to 100 feet behind the boat. If the water is crystal clear, you might need to go back even further to avoid spooking the fish with the engine noise. Just remember that the more line you have out, the more stretch you'll have (if you're using mono), so you might need to swing the rod a bit harder to ensure a good hookset.
Braided Line vs. Monofilament
This is a bit of a toss-up and depends on what you're targeting. Braided line is great for trolling because it has zero stretch and a very thin diameter. This allows your lures to dive deeper and gives you a much better feel for what the lure is doing. You can actually see the rod tip vibrating as the lure swims; if that vibration stops, you know you've picked up some weeds.
However, mono has its place too. Because mono stretches, it provides a safety net. If a fish hits hard or you accidentally snag the bottom, that stretch can prevent the line from snapping immediately. If I'm using braid, I always use a long fluorocarbon or mono leader (about 10-15 feet) to provide that little bit of "shock" protection and to keep the fish from seeing the braid.
Speed and Maneuvering
When you're trolling with a spinning reel, keep a close eye on your boat speed. Most lures have a "sweet spot" where they dance perfectly. Too slow and they sink or don't move; too fast and they spin out of control or skip on the surface.
Don't just drive in a straight line, either. Making "S" turns is a classic trick. When you turn, the lures on the inside of the turn slow down and sink, while the lures on the outside speed up and rise. This often triggers a strike from a fish that was just following the lure but wasn't sure about committing. It's a simple move, but it works wonders.
Wrapping Things Up
Trolling with a spinning reel doesn't have to be complicated. It's a fantastic way to cover water and find where the fish are holding without needing a boat full of specialized gear. As long as you pay attention to your drag settings, manage your line twist with good swivels, and match your reel size to your target species, you're going to have a great time.
Next time you're headed out, don't feel like you're at a disadvantage just because you aren't using conventional gear. Grab your favorite spinning rod, let out some line, and see what happens. You might find that it's not only more comfortable but also just as productive as any other method out there. Happy fishing!